Jacket zips take the most time to replace.
As you all know I am in Australia and I charge my customers up to $65.00 to replace jacket zips in a lined garment. Because I work on AUD$40.00 plus GST (10%) per hour, by the time I unpick the broken jacket zips, and put the new one in it takes over an hour.
Some people go into shock when I give them to price, but I always do this BEFORE I take the job. That way there are not shocks AFTER the work is done. If you explain why it will cost this much, they can decide if the jacket is worth it or not. Some people will say no, but others will have it done, because they love the jacket and they can't get another one like it. Remember that if you under charge for your work, you are going to become resentful and if you become resentful you will not love what you are doing. If you know that you will be paid for doing the job, you will do a good job. The customer is not going to replace jacket zips, because they do not have the time or they have no idea how to do it.
Lined jacket
When unpicking the jacket, have a look at how it is done before you start. Not all jackets are inserted the same, but there is a common method to them all.
With the zip unpicked put your hand through the inside of the jacket lining from one side to the other.
NOTE- I do not use a zipper foot to attach this type of zipper. I use my normal sewing foot and I BUTT the edge of the foot up against the teeth and move the needle to the best location. Look at the zip and you will notice that the weave is in LINES. Place the needle into one of these lines the correct distance from the teeth. The edge of the foot against the teeth will keep it at the correct position.
Usually I would attach the lining to the back side of the zip on both sides. Make sure that they are even. This should be relatively easy because the jacket is OPEN at the front and you have complete access to the lining on each side.
Now pop one side through to the other side and sew the front of the zipper onto the jacket. I do not mean the top stitching here but rather the right side of the outer to the right side of the zipper. You probably should pin into place first.
Sew with the fabric at the top so you can sew back into the same stitch holes.
When finished bag the top and the bottom of the zip on this side. To see how to bag view video on "Bagging an invisible zip" because the concept is the same. Pop it back through to the right side. Now you need to open a seam in the lining so that you can pop the side not done through the lining to do the work. An alternative is that some jackets have the hem allowance turned up and stitched, and by unpicking the hem allowance a small amount you can pop the jacket through the opening at the hem allowance.
Follow the same procedure as the other side, bag the top and bottom then close the opening in the lining by sewing a row of stitching close to the edge. Replacing jacket zips is not an easy exercise and the first one may take some time, but once you have replaced a few it becomes second nature (like anything repeated over and over again)
Happy sewing
Judith Turner