Tips on inserting invisible zip onto lace fabric

Sewing invisible zip to lace.  Have you ever made or had to replace the invisible zip in lace or embroidered fabric?  Maybe even a chiffon or light weight fabric.  The challenge is of course that any zip, including an invisible zip will definitely catch on the lace or embroidered section, or even on the very soft fabric, and naturally the zip will break.  So how do you stop this from happening?

Well it’s actually not too difficult.  Before you insert the zip, sew some satin bias or normal bias around the zip opening.  The bias needs to be about 1cm (1/2”) give or take around the edge of the zip opening.  Sew the bias on so that the bias is right side to the right side of the fabric 1cm (1/2”) from the cut edge of the fabric.  Then fold it back towards the cut edge and iron it flat.  Secure the bias at the edge.  Sew the zip onto the edge of the bias.  It will only be a millimetre in from the edge, so that when the zip is opened and closed it will roll up the bias, and not up the lace or embroidered fabric.

I love replacing dress zips with invisible zips because I find them easier to insert and I only use my normal domestic sewing machine zipper foot.  I just use my finger nails to hold the zip teeth across as I sew close to the teeth.  But of course some fabrics have bits and pieces dangling off them some times, and sewing a zip onto this type of fabric is hard.  So the above idea of sewing satin bias binding in a similar colour to the fabric in the position where you will sew the invisible zip will save you or your customer a lot of angst.

Happy altering
Judith Turner