Envelope hem on wedding gown

Envelope hem on wedding gown will take some time to shorten.  This type of gown has an encased skirt.  The lining is attached to the hem allowance and usually there is a plastic mesh strip which is attached to the top of the hem allowance and is the width of the hem allowance.  Usually the strip is joined on at the same time the hem allowance is attached to the lining.

The only ones I have altered have also had a train, so I have only shortened the envelope hem starting at the sides and around to the front.

The first step is the pin correctly.  To see how I pin a wedding gown hem refer to my book Clothing Alteration Secrets Revealed for how to pin.

Transpose the pin measurements, unpick the hem from the lining and separate the mesh strip from the hem allowance.

Measure up the amount to be shortened at the front tapering around to the sides but remember to come back down the same hem allowance as before.

With the lining, measure up the same amount as the outer fabric was shortened, at the same positions, but only come down the hem allowance for the lining.

Cut the outer and the lining.  Pin the mesh strip and the lining back together, and iron when completed.  If the lining is the correct length it should not need anything to hold it up, however to be sure lightly stitch by hand to hold up hem allowance.  I have also seen some gowns where the envelope hem has been gathered onto the lining.  Only fine fabrics like a chiffon is used, but that means more time to re gather etc.

Happy altering

Judith aka genie