Trouser hem crocked is a situation I have found myself in quite a few times.  It is when the manufacturer HAS NOT cut the trousers out on the straight of the grain.  The fabric has flopped on either the inside or outside leg.  Stand in front of a full length mirror.  Look at the finished length on the inside leg and the finished length on the outside leg.

Trousers can be discarded at second hand shops because the hem is crocked.  What a great way to pick up a bargain and fix it quite easily.

What do you do if the trousers are too long or need straightening?

This is where my Taking Up technique comes into play.  There are a number of things I do to ensure the hems are going to be the same length from the floor at all four pointed on the hem. The points are the outside leg, inside leg, center front and center back.

I always have the person face a long mirror and I kneel behind the right leg.  I fold the fabric under and place two pins in a cross at the outside leg.  I repeat the process at the inside leg making sure it is the same distance from the floor as the outside leg.  Then do the same at the center front and back.

When it comes to doing the alteration, place a pin into the folded section at the four points.  Release the crossed pins so that the hem drops down.

I use a chaco chalk marker.  The pen rolls over the fabric and leaves a chalk mark.  Measure down from the pin for the hem allowance.  I do a 3.75 (1/1/2 in) for women and 4 cm (2 in) for men.

Cut on the bottom line then fold the hem up and see if it will fit back up into the trouser leg.  Because it is on the bias it may not sit properly.  Overlock the edge.

Pin the second that has the worst curvature.  It may be the inside leg was longer, so pin this section up first.  This section will be on the bias and therefore you can ease this in.  If you do the worst section LAST, it may not fit.

Just to repeat that.  Fold and pin the section with the worst curvature up first, then pin the least.  If it is the inside leg, the inside leg seam may not be flush.  This is fine.  Work around the trousers.

EXPLANATION - I use a blind hemming machine, and always start at the worst section first.  In this case it is the section that drops down.  I ease this in, so that by the time I come to the next seam, which is almost straight across, the stitching is easier.  The section that is dropped, I tend to not worry about the seams lining up.  Yet as I move around the hem, the hem allowance will ease in and the section that is flatter usually will almost line up.

Try doing it the opposite way.  Stitching the flatter section first.  By the time you come to the dropped section it will be difficult to get it to sit correctly.

Trouser hem crocked

 

 

 

Happy altering
Judith Turner