Open out seams hem to sit flat

Open out seams hem to sit flat should always be done before over locking.

This is another one of those alteration areas that can create confusion.  I had a lady join one of my shops, who thought the only way to open out seams was to start sewing about 15 cm (6 in) above the new hem length, slowly taper down, then once she reached the new hem length, she would tape in.  Unfortunately when she showed me what she was doing, the first thing I noticed was that the inside leg "line" swerved in where she began to sew.  This almost made the person look like they had a "bump" on the inside leg and the knee looked quite wide.

In all of the hems I have altered, there has only been one time where I had to taper down from the knee so that I could open out the seam, and that was because the trousers were so tapered at the new hem length, that opening out the seams on the inside and outside leg from the new hem length to the raw edge did not allow enough for the hem to sit flat.

The seam generally only needs to be opened from the new hem length to the cut raw edge.  To work out how much, fold the hem allowance up, having one side even and the other side will show you how much you need to open out the seam.

The only point I would make here is that when you begin to sew OVER the existing seam on the inside leg, that you MUST be EXACTLY on top of this seam.  If you are even slightly off to one side it will not sit correctly.

Some sewing machine feet are more enclosed than others, and it may be difficult to see where the needle is being placed.  If this is the case, try and buy a plastic foot.  One that you can see through.  I use my single plastic button hole foot when doing this, because I can see exactly where my needle is being positioned.

If you are only new to sewing, practice by sewing a few rows , then try and sew over the top of them so that it still looks like one row of stitching.  By practicing this, you will find that all your clothing alteration work will be excellent.

Open out seams hem to sit flat should be done on all hems if it is tapered either in or out, because the hem allowance will NOT sit back up into the new length.

Happy altering

Judith aka genie