Hems on Gowns

The types of hems I am talking about are the full skirt gown.  Gowns like this are generally worn out for a special function, or a bridesmaid gown or wedding dress.  The skirt is full, and this means that at certain sections the skirt will fall on the bias.  The fabric drops at this section which causes the skirt to be uneven.  Shops that sell gowns have them hanging on the rack ready for the customer to come and view.  The longer a gown hangs, the more the gown will drop.

The other extremely important point is that when a gown is manufactured, the hem is not always completed accurately.  Added to this is the fact that we are all different body shapes, so that means when the gown is on the body, it may dip in the front or dip in the back because of a large bust or round bottom.  The most common problem I found was that the back was usually higher than the front!

So imagine what happens, when a person brings in a gown and says, “Take it up 10 cm (4”)” and doesn’t try it on. I have had people bring me gowns that are shorter in the back than the front, and are looking for solutions.  If this ever happens to you and you then you can insert a panel across the bottom, but make it look like it was meant to be by having one side longer than the other as if it is a triangle.  This is just another good reason for saving off cuts from alterations.

Another tip when pinning a gown is to make sure that the straps are correct, BEFORE you pin the bottom.  Even if they do not need to be altered, check to make sure they are sitting correctly on the person.  It is very frustrating when you have spent time pinning the bottom – all the way around the gown, only to have the person give a tug here and a tug there AFTER you have done all that.

Generally I will say something like, “Before I pin the hem, I need to be sure you are comfortable with the top section.  Because if that changes then the hem will change.”

Pin the front of the gown first; getting the length the person wants.  Make sure they are standing with their spine straight.  A person’s first reaction is to bend down and look at what you are doing!  Then they look up and it’s too short!  Work with the person wearing the gown.  They have paid a lot of money for that gown, and having the hem straight it important.

Have you ever noticed at the Oscars how the hems are all over the place!  Seriously, the ladies gowns are very seldom straight, and men’s trouser hems are generally way too long!  I watched a show on Oprah one day where they did a transformation of these men.  The transformation was amazing, but the only thing that I felt let it all down was the fact that the trousers had not been hemmed to the persons correct length.  They were so long; they bunched up around their knee and thigh area.  But I am digressing...

Once you have the length at the front, measure from the floor to the new fold.  Whatever this measurement is move around the gown folding the hem up the same amount. Double check the side seams because they may have pulled up slightly with the stitching.

If you have a hem chalk marker, you could have the person stand on a stool.  Place a pin at the new fold, and drop the hem.  Then set the chalk marker at this new length and puff chalk around the new hem line.  This is a major time saver, and saves your back.

Sewing your hem

1. Most domestic sewing machines have a rolled hem foot.  They can be an excellent method for sewing a small rolled hem on a gown, but they are not without their frustrating points.  When you hit the bias of a gown the fabric is harder to feed through.  And when you come to side seams, the thickness can be a problem.  Try sewing a row of stitching around the bottom of the hem just in from the cut line.  This may help you a little to stabilize the fabric.

2. Use your normal sewing foot and stitch around the bottom of the gown, then fold this over and stitch around again.  The first row of stitching makes it easier to fold and gives you a nice tiny hem.

3. Instead of sewing around the bottom just up from the cut line, fold the fabric over .5 cm (1/4”) and stitch in place.  Once you have stitched all the way around the garment, fold this section over and stitch around again.  This also gives a tiny hem.

4. Convert your overlocker to a three thread machine.  Take the needle out of the left hand position and only have one needle in the right (next to the machine).  Set the overlock width to as wide as possible, and overlock the edge of the garment.  When you are finished, use your normal sewing machine to fold the overlocking over and stitch a small hem.

5.  If you want to create a flounce on the bottom of the gown, switch to zigzag with a medium width stitch and lay some fishing line underneath the gown.  Zigzag as you go and make sure you catch the fishing line as you stitch.

6. If you own an overlocker, and the gown is a chiffon or similar soft fabric, you could put a rolled hem on using your overlocker.  Switch to the rolled hem foot, or if it has an adjustment only, make the adjustment.  I find that turning the blade down so it is not cutting the fabric gives a nicer finish.  Also consider putting an embroidery thread in the middle.  This gives a really great finish.  For some fabrics, I will go around once, and then go around a second time over the top of the first.  It makes the rolled hem thicker and looks great.

Tip – Instead of hanging a gown in the wardrobe on a hanger, either lay in flat in a draw, or place it inside a clothes bag which you can hang in the wardrobe, but have the bag folded in half and attached back on the hanger, so that there is no weight pulling the skirt down.

Happy altering
Judith aka genie