Bodice gown clothing alterations
Some lined garments are encased inside the bodice and you wonder how you are supposed to get into it to alter.
It could be shortening the straps, taking in the sides or taking in at the sides or back with boning attached. Whatever the alteration, finding a way in can be confusing.
Generally the fashion fabric and lining are separate, and you are able to get up into the garment and work each section with ease, however there are times when a garment can be closed at the waist, or in the case of a vest or bodice the garment is totally encased with no openings.
When we alter lined jackets, there is an opening in one of the sleeves, which has been top stitched down. Look to see if there is any such opening in the lining of the bodice. If there is no such opening, consider one of the following:-
Dress zip - unpick one side of the zip that has the flap across the zip. Generally it only needs to be unpicked in the middle of the zip, rather than anywhere near the top or bottom of the zip. Do not unpick the lining from the zip, JUST THE FASHION FABRIC (outer fabric). The lining is generally attached to the zip first, then the zip is topstitched in.
As mentioned earlier the last stitch sewn is the first to be removed. By unpicking the topstitching on the fashion fabric, you will have a lot of room to get inside and do any alterations. then all you have to do when finished is re topstitch the zip back on.
Closed at waist or under bust - Usually the upper and lower section of the garment have been joined together, however there is usually a very small section next to the zip that has not been sewn ON THE LINING (inside).
Push your fingers into this small hole, and with your quick unpick, slowly unpick the stitches attaching the bodice to the waist. You do need to open it out sufficient to get in and do the alterations. Once the alteration is complete you should be able to resew the bodice lining to the waist or slip stitch it back on. Bodice gown clothing alterations are one of the most difficult. Sometimes the lining on the bodice is the last to be attached at the waist or under the bust, so this can be unpicked to give access.
Happy altering
Judith Turner