Gee alterationShorten gee sleeves

A gee has one seam at the inside arm and this is usually a flat felled seam.  Most sleeves are tapered, which means when reducing the length of the sleeve, the hem allowance will pucker if the seam is not opened out.

Opening a flat felled seam is not difficult.  I generally do what I called a turn twice hem allowance.  There are two sections to this.  The first is the section that will be folded inside the hem allowance and will not be seen.  This should be no more than 1.25 cm ( 1/2 inch) and the hem allowance itself which should be no more than 2.5 cm (1 inch)

My suggested hem allowance would be 2 cm (3/4 inch) PLUS 0.9 cm (3/8th inch).

The hem allowance is noticeable in Photos 1 and 2.

Photo 1

Photo 1

Open seams on gee

Photo 2

When opening out the flat felled seam, ONLY unpick up to the fold of the new length.  Do not exceed this.Highlight fold line gee  Most seams will have a chain stitch.  When unraveling from the bottom upwards to the armhole, be sure to CUT the chain stitch where it should finish unraveling.  NOT doing this could mean it unravels more than needed, and creates more work.

Splay the seam open and stitch on the right side of the gee seam, opening out the seam as much as possible.  Stitch on the edge locking off at the start so that the seam never unravels.  Create the second seam beside the first the same width as the seam above it.

Notice in Photo 2 that the stitching is not on the seam in some cases.  It does not matter.  The illusion is that the seam is a double stitched seam, and this is on the underside of the sleeve in the hem allowance.

Now you can fold and pin the hem allowance and stitch as normal.

Photo 3 Gee sleeve

Cheers
Judith Turner

 

2016-10-21T10:18:31+10:00 By |Categories: Hems|Comments Off on Shorten gee sleeves