Shorten gee sleeves A gee has one seam at the inside arm and this is usually a flat felled seam.  Most sleeves are tapered, which means when reducing the length of the sleeve, the hem allowance will pucker if the seam is not opened out. Opening a flat felled seam is not difficult.  I generally do what I called a turn twice hem allowance.  There are two sections to this.  The first is the section [...]

Trouser hem crocked is a situation I have found myself in quite a few times.  It is when the manufacturer HAS NOT cut the trousers out on the straight of the grain.  The fabric has flopped on either the inside or outside leg.  Stand in front of a full length mirror.  Look at the finished length on the inside leg and the finished length on the outside leg. Trousers can be discarded at second hand [...]