When you shorten a hem on a wedding gown with a envelop hem, there are a few ways to save time. I will take you through those short cuts, and hopefully help you to do this alteration quicker. This is a fairly long blog because there are 33 photos and I put the step by step information under each photo. This wedding dress had a train, so I only pinned at the front around to the sides. Therefore the only section to be taken up is from the sides around to the front and around to the opposite side.
When pinning any gown with layers, I suggest you start with the outer layer first and work out the length. It is fairly easy to push the other layers out of the way. Inwards of course, towards her legs. Most wedding gowns will either be 2.5 cm(1 inch) from the floor, or just touching the floor. It will be the bride who determines where she wants it. And I would spend the time talking to her before I start anything to work out where she wants it.
Once that has been determined, I would kneel in from of her and fold up at the center front first. Then I would work around to one side, then around to the other side. At every 15 cm (6 in) I would place a pin. Generally it would be two pins in a cross. Once it is all pinned, I would do the other layers, asking her to hold up the outer layer. The other layers will be less than the top layer. So pin higher.
Once on the work table place a pin on the fold line.
This shows the angle it is going on from the side around to the front
This gown had an overlay at the front. I have unpicked up that seam so that I can take in the overlay and the skirt of the gown.
This shows the pins going off towards the side seam in the distance
The under-stitching on both layers must be undone from side to side
Pull the section to be taken up through the opening at the seam. Transfer pins to the wrong side as per the photo.
This is the opposite side. The fold line is not the take up point. The lining is higher because of the tape on the bottom.
Most gowns with envelope hem will have horse hair tape around the bottom.
This needs to be unpicked around to the side, so it can be restitched at the new hem line.
The overlay needs to be bagged.
Pin carefully folding the edge back like the original
Make sure when it is pinned that there is no twist in the fabric
Stitch into the new hem line
It should be folded so that seam underneath is at the edge of the fold.
Once the main skirt is shortened the same way, pin the tape to the edge
Stitch the tape to the edge
Stop before the open seam
Go back to the sides and under-stitch the tape
Restitch most of the seam that was opened, but leave an opening above the hem line on the wrong side.
Pin the hem section that was not finished either side of the seam.
Pin completely across side to side
Make sure seam allowances are open
Horse hair needs to be stitched
Pop most of the gown through the opening
Close opening by top stitching edge
Example of overlay and edge of hem
Another photo of finished section
