Hem lined jacket - to start you need to get into the jacket.  Generally there is a seam that has been closed inside one of the sleeves in the lining.  For men's jackets, you will have to make an opening in the lining in the body of the garment, because the sleeves will be closed at the top of the sleeve.  Occasionally, you will come across a jacket for men that are made in the same way a woman's jacket is.

Step 1 - Unpick the inside arm seam of the lining.

Step 2 - Pop the whole jacket out through the opening.  When you first do this, you may feel a little strange, but get into the habit of altering from the inside.  It is quicker and easier.  Pop your hand in and grab hold of the corner furthest away from you.  Pull that through the opening.  Then pop your hand in and grab the corner of the jacket closest to you.  Then pop the collar through.

Step 3 - For this example the jacket is straight across with no split

Step 4 - The hem will be attached at each seam to hold it up.  Unpick the hem from the attached seam.

Step 5 - The front panels can be manufactured in a number of ways:-

Option 1 - The front facing and the lining are joined all the way through. It will look like it has been bagged straight across from the edge to the end of the front inside panel.  The stitching then tapers across and down by the hem allowance.

Option 2 - The lining is separate from the front inside panel, and has been joined before the hem has been turned up.

Step 6 - Mark the amount that you are going up on the wrong side of the outer fabric not the right side.

Step 7 - You will be measuring from the fold line (original hem) up to the new hem length.  Mark all the way around the jacket, marking at seams and in between.  Mark the lining the same amount.  This will be the amount you are shortening the jacket by, then you will mark below this amount by 1.2 cm (1/2").  This is the seam allowance.  If Option 2 - Cut the outer fabric separate to the lining EXCEPT the front and the inside front panels that are joined.  Cut these together up to the edge of the inside front panel.  Then cut the outer and the lining separate.

Short cut for Option 1 - Mark up the amount you are shortening the jacket, and then down the hem allowance, and BEFORE YOU CUT - stitch 1.2 cm (1/2") above the hem allowance.  Cut on the bottom chalk mark and proceed as follows:-

Step 8 - Lay the jacket on the ironing board, and iron the jacket flat.

Step 9 - Iron interfacing on to the hem allowance placing the interfacing in between each seam.  My interfacing is usually 5 cm (2") wide because most hem allowances are 4cm (1 ½") wide.  The interfacing should be between the cut line and the new fold line.  Not above the fold line.

Step 10 - Bag the two front sections together.  When you ironed up the hem allowance, you will have made sure the two fronts are even.

Bag the right side front, then the left side front, and check to see they are even.

Step 11 - Pin the side facing to the outer fabric on the hem on each front section.

Step 12 - Pin the lining to the outer fabric.  I do a 1 cm (1/2") hem allowance.

Step 13 - For the rest of the jacket, sew just above the bottom chalk mark.  This means you sew from the edge of the facing to the opposite facing.

Step 14 - Cut off the excess fabric on the cut line.

Step 15 - Iron the hem up by having the garment with the inside facing you, and iron up the hem allowance.  Use the end of the ironing board.

Step 16 - Fold the hem allowance over to the lining and iron into place.

Step 17 - Do this all the way around the jacket hem.

Step 18 - Attach the hem to the seams at each section.

Step 19 - Pop the jacket out through the opening in the sleeve.

Step 20 - Re-iron the hem and if you marked correctly, the hem should be straight.

Step 21 - Close the opening in the sleeve.

If you have a jacket that has a curved front panel, make a template by placing a piece of cardboard underneath one front curve and draw around the outline.  Cut your template.  When you have the jacket inside out, lay the template over the front panel and draw your curved outline (this is on the wrong side of the fabric because it is inside out) and this is your stitch line.  Proceed as per above for the rest of the jacket.

Happy altering

Judith aka genie