I often talk about garment construction and how it would be difficult to give a price on an alteration over the phone.  For those of you who are doing clothing alterations for a living, this topic will be worth reading.  If you are only doing your own and friends alterations, it will still be worth reading as it looks at garment construction when taking in the sides of a dress or top.

Generally when I get a call that a gown is too big and that it is a lined chiffon over satin I assume the front and back panels are the same.  Not so.  Check out the photo on the left which shows the side seam.  The back panel has been finished with shirring elastic, and is two layers folded at the top to make it like one layer.  This means that the top of this panel is very floppy.  

The front bodice panel is two layers.  It also has clear elastic around the top to help with grip.

I pinned it on the client, and away they went.  The amount to be taken in each side under the arm was 3.175 cm (1 1/8" in).

I unpicked at the waist sufficient to pull the section through the opening.  The challenge with this type of alteration is lining up the two sides.  Particularly since one side has a soft frill at the top and the other the clear plastic.

 The method I use is to tack the two sections together BEFORE popping through the opening.  I used white thread to highlight the method.

This ensures that when turned inside out, the top will remain even.

Once it is turned inside out, place the dot for the amount it is being taken in from the original seam.  Place any other dots from the measurements.

Start sewing about 0.6 cm (1/4 in) below the top and reverse back.  This should help to have both sides even.  Sew to the end.

Cut away the excess, and turn back to the right side.  Unpick the tacking and reattach to the skirt.

The top should be even if it was tacked correctly.  The alternative is to not tack and try to lay the lined side over the top of the shirring.  Whilst you might get it right on one side, it may not work on the opposite side.

Happy altering
Judith Turner