Curve hem allowance
When taking in a garment, if the seam is curved, puckering can occur. That means you need to curve hem allowance. What do I mean by this? Instead of starting at the "take in" point at the top, begin closer to the original seam. Taper out immediately to the first fold (if there are two), then out again to the second fold.
By doing this, when the hem allowance is folded over and stitched, there will be no puckering in the seam. I have provided some photos of a dress that had no sleeve inserts. But it was too wide so the customer wanted it taken in. An easy job to do. But if I had started sewing from the top without curve hem allowance, the fabric would have puckered. And I would have been trying without fail to ease the hem allowance in. Frustrating!
It is a fair amount of fabric to take in, and because there was no sleeve it had to be curved around the underarm. But before that it had to be curved at the top hem allowance, so that when folded it would sit flat.
Happy altering
Judith Turner
