CONVERT CAP SLEEVE TO SHORT SLEEVE WITH INVISIBLE ZIP AT SIDE

Change the appearance of a dress by converting a cap sleeve to a short sleeve, but what if there is a zip at the side?  This blog explains how to convert cap sleeve to short sleeve and change the way the zip is inserted.

From this
To this

The challenge with this type of alteration is the fact that there is a zipper on the inside seam up to the armhole.

Therefore to insert a full sleeve whether it is short, medium or long length, means that the method the zipper is inserted needs to change.  It is not a major job to do this.  All that needs to happen is that the top 2.5 cm (1 in) of the zipper needs to be closed.  Whether the dress has a capped sleeve or no sleeve, the same method can be used.

As we get older the tops of our arms may not be as sculptured as we would like.  A sleeve hides these impurities.

But before we get to that, the cap sleeve needs to be unpicked.  This dress is lined, and that means that the lining and the outer fashion fabric must always be matched at top of the shoulder and at the underarm.

Unpick the sleeve plus the section under the sleeve.  This is the lining and the fashion fabric that has been joined together and top stitched.

Unpick the top of the zip and down about 5 cm (2 in) (fashion fabric and lining) on both sleeves

If the dress has a capped sleeve you could use this to draft a new sleeve.  If the dress is sleeveless, you might like to consider purchasing my eBook

Draft a sleeve for a sleeveless garment

Before attaching the sleeve, close the top of the zipper section by 2.5 cm (1 in).  Depending on the way it is constructed, the lining will either be joined to the fashion fabric and the zipper attached, or the zipper is attached to the fashion fabric and the lining is attached to the side of the zipper.  The later means that the top section of each must be closed independently of each other.

 

Notice how the top section of the zipper is closed.  To ensure the lining and the fashion fabric are aligned, pin together and stitch before attaching the sleeve.  I tend find it faster to attach the sleeve, and over lock the edge.  If you like you can hand stitch the overlocked edge to the lining, but it is not really necessary.

I would suggest restitching the fashion fabric side of the zipper first.  When the lining is attached to the side of the zipper, it is always attached AFTER the zip is attached to the fashion fabric ON AN INVISIBLE ZIP.  The opposite is true of a dress zip.  The lining should be attached first, then the dress zip is top stitched in.

Happy altering

Judith Turner

2018-04-29T19:09:45+10:00 By |Categories: Dresses and Gowns, Sleeves and straps|Comments Off on Convert cap sleeve to short sleeve